Good Intentions

Luang Nam Tha to Luang Prabang, June 21

Laos

The old rolling mountains are seemingly infinite in number and covered in an unfathomable coat of green. The foliage and plant life grow almost on top of each other, crowded close like rioters at a demonstration. It is as if God accidentally overturned a basket full of assorted trees and ground cover and the contents tumbled directly down from the sky to the tumultuous landscape of Northern Laos. Bamboo shoots drape their young sapling arms between teak and rubber trees and the tall grasses encroach on the road as if threatening mutiny.
All this uncontained, uncontrolled life stands in stark contrast to the increasing eyesores of slash-and-burn agriculture popping up throughout the region. This land is inhabited by Hill Tribe people whose relocation to the low lands was so recent that no one – not the people, the government, or the land – has had time to adjust accordingly. The eradication of the opium trade – or eradication effort – has had cultural and environmental consequences unforeseen by the well-wishers abroad. It leaves one feeling desperate. This disruption in culture and livelihoods was well intended but the results were less than encouraging.
All a traveler can do is buy the arbitrary village souvenirs and not on paper the loss of virgin land to yet another road paved with good intentions.